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In
February of 1999 I was trekking with a college buddy and a guide in the
Gunung Leuser National Park in Sumatra. We were about 3 hours into our
3 day jungle adventure when I heard the unmistakable sound of chainsaws
buzzing in the distance. The buzz saws made my ears perk up more than
usual on that day because no doubt this was illegal logging or sometimes
called timber poaching, in one of the last unmolested areas of Sumatra.
The park is on the flanks of the over 3,000 meter peak Gunung Leuser and
contains some of the richest biodiversity in the world including Sumatran
tigers, rhinos, elephants, orangutans, hornbills, and countless other
bird and insect species. That afternoon, as we were setting up camp on
the Bohorok River, a burst of rain fell right on time as it usually does
in the tropics. Having just finished my degree in physical geography my
eyes were fresh out of 4 years of training to observe my environment.
What I saw after that brief shower was a Bohorok river that had turned
into the color of chocolate milk and nearly left its banks before it ebbed
and settled back to its normal state. Was I witnessing floodwaters exacerbated
by deforestation or was it just heavier rain upstream that I was ignorant
about? Given the news on November 3rd, 2003, almost five years after my
visit to the region, I believe that it was due to deforestation upstream.
On
October 30th, a stationary low pressure centered over North Sumatra province
began its 5-day assault on the normally 1-3 meter deep Bohorok River and
turned it into a monster not witnessed in modern times. On November 3rd,
the combination of heavy rain falling onto the illegally deforested slopes
of the Bohorok watershed caused a wall of water 4 meters high to come
barreling down the narrow canyon containing mud, earth and perfectly sawed
logs where first it met the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center, then the
many guesthouses that line the footpath towards the park headquarters,
and finally downstream to Bukit Lawang village and beyond. In its wake
it left at least 180 dead and more than 400 buildings destroyed or 90%
of the total village. This was an environmental crime of major proportions!
Environmental
crimes are not new to society but in this era of globalization appear
to be more and more frequent as well as more and more visible. For sure,
with the ability of peoples to reach distant lands either by plane or
via CNN, these events hit closer to home more today than ever before.
There are countless types of environmental crimes ranging from the Soviet
Union's desiccation of the Aral Sea in Central Asia to many industries
just about everywhere knowingly dumping toxic effluents into waterways.
The perpetrators of environmental crimes are as diverse as the offenses
committed. The common denominator in such crimes though is the indictment
of society. Without humans the environment would exist in a pristine world
(with the exception of deep climate change and the occasional comet impact.)
Indonesian officials
were quick to blame this catastrophe on illegal logging and were quoted
as saying "this disaster was not completely natural." They carried
on to say that they know who the loggers are and that they will be brought
to justice. But what kind of justice? Corrupt Indonesian justice that
led to this problem in the first place or true objective environmental
justice?
If there was ever
a time for environmental justice, it is now. There is ample evidence to
bring an indictment. In fact, there has been such evidence for a long
time. There are plenty of witnesses who could have testified. Unfortunately,
many of them perished in the raging flood waters.
One
of my fondest memories of Bukit Lawang was sitting on the guesthouse porch
overhanging the aqua-blue Bohorok River, watching orangutans building
their nests 60 meters high in the forest canopy. Most of the orangutans
around the town and the rehabilitation center were once stolen as infants
from these very forests by "bio pirates" (i.e., poachers) and
then sold as pets (just another example of an environmental crime, primate
kidnapping!). Once they lost their cute baby faces and became the 100+
kilo people of the forest (orangutan means "forest people" in
Indonesian) that they are, their human captors dumped them at the proverbial
curbside of society. The fortunate ones were the orangutans who made it
back to their jungle home and were witness to the November 3rd unnatural
disaster. I wonder what those original people of the forest were thinking
from the safety of their perches as these new people of the forest below
became the victims of an environmental crime? The orangutans would be
a destructive character witness against the defense. What would they like
to say to a judge and jury? We will never know, but we can guess.
(AP Photos)
--John
Hopewell
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